Lilan’s Lovebirds

Posted on 28 février 2018 by mfg

Among my favorite birds, they are the smallest parrots on the African mainland

They nest in cavity of trees like mopanes and acacias close to water. Monogamous, they like however to stay in small groups.

They spend time foraging the ground eating grass, fruit and seeds.

They were named Lilan’s lovebird from the beloved Lilian Sclater when her husband describes first the birds in the late 1980’s

They have been declining due to the flood in the Zambezi Valley to make the artificial Kariba Lake. Considered as a « pledge » by some small farmers they were intensively poisoned. Moreover the poachers have also poisoned quantity of mammals killing the love birds at the same time.

Many are captured for the international trade as well as with countries like Zimbabwe, Zambia and Mozambique.

European Starling

Posted on 22 janvier 2018 by mfg

Ile de France – Bougival –

In summer they are purplish-green iridescent with yellow beaks.

They prefer to live near human settlements.

Traveling in large group, the species is partially migrant .

They are gregarious and spend their time forming groups, which can reach more than one million of birds. they sleep in community dormitories having then a protection against predators. When they fly in group, they can have brutal change of direction and in presence of a danger they gather together making a « compact » big ball.

They have a large vocal range and can imitate many other birds, being very noisy.

If they usually nest in the holes of a tree, they also stay in a wall or in some hidden place of a roof.

European Starling

Posted on 22 janvier 2018 by mfg

They always need an open space like a lawn, a field to feed of invertebrates or insects on the ground. Unfortunately they also love fruit and can fall on an orchard, vineyard by thousands being then very destructive.

Short-toed Creeper

Posted on 21 janvier 2018 by mfg

Ile de France – Bougival –

The short-toed Creepers and the common Creepers are similar, they can be identified mainly by the difference in their song, however, the short-toed Creeper is more present in Ile de France.…They are found in woodland and feed on insects, larves, or spiders under the cork of the tree.

Short-toed Creeper

Posted on 21 janvier 2018 by mfg

It is a small passerine which climbs up and down the trunk of the trees making small hops like a spiral.

Eurasian Jay

Posted on 21 janvier 2018 by mfg

These birds belong to corvid species and are beautiful as their feathers reflect the UV light.

When they communicate or are nervous they often raise their crest.

They are very clever and can imitate human voice and more.

They make their nest to breed high in a tree, up to 10m in coniferous but preferably with a thick bush at the basis of the tree.

their nest is made outside with small sticks but hey cover the inside with moss and grass to be more comfortable.

In autumn, they eat plants and berries but also acorns that they keep in reserve for the winter. In spring & summer, their food is composed of insects, beetles. but unfortunately they happen also to eat small rodents, lizards and even birds or their eggs.

Trip to Zimbabwe (2017) – Mana Pools & Hwange N.P.

Posted on 14 novembre 2017 by mfg

This trip to Zimbabwe took place in October and it was very hot.
The daily temperature was around 40° in the shadow at noon and we generally left for safari around 4 pm.

KANGA CAMP – Mana Pools NP.

Kanga was a very nice place situated quite near the only pan of the area. The landscape was dry, burnt, and the green color was fading.

The all life was concentrated on the pan alimented in water by a pump.

We spent all our spare time sitting in the outside lounge to attend a nearly continuous show.

It was so dry that a fish Eagle caught the only Cattle Egret of the pan, probably because of the lack of fishes in a too low water. It was sad as the same morning someone had taken it in picture and we had discussed on the light brown color on its back indicating it was a « breeding Cattle Egret »

Plenty of animals were coming to drink, mixing with others according to their « affinities «. The impalas remained peaceful when a group of 13 Kudus males arrived with one female, they were all together among « hordes » of monkeys. The monkeys are very appreciated because they give alarm calls in in case of sudden dangers like lions coming; then the animals are staring at the bush, ready to run away.

Most people love to see Lions, but there is an inconvenience: when the lions are here, all the other animals are away, even the Leopard. When you see the lions lying down to sleep, you know your day is finished, the pan will remain empty!

The safaris around the camp at that time did not show much, the best place remaining the pan. The tents were very near the water and we just had to sit outside and look.

There, tribes of big Chacma Baboons were running, sitting near us at few meters, and playing as well on our terrace; they were impressive but cool. Well educated, they never took the cushions remaining outside in our absence; neither stole the toiletries from the open air shower.

They were true humans! so humans that one day Denis was “hidden” not far from the lounge, everybody had gone as well as the staff when the Baboons came and began to invade the place; first they played trampoline on the roof made of canvas, then they decided to spend a moment on the mattress facing the swimming pool, getting acquainted with other « Guests Baboons », at the end of their talks, they invited themselves to the lounge bar, sat comfortably in the armchairs waiting probably for the barman to bring them a cold beer!

Once I was walking on the path when a huge Baboon faced me, he went spontaneously aside to give me the path and I still listen to his thought saying “ Milady, Please go first“ That makes a great difference with Botswana Baboons! Once I was in the same situation, and a frightening Baboon stopped and faced me with bloody eyes ready to aggress me; I still listened to his thought « If you don’t move back, your life is gone, old Spinster! », I rushed back with all my body shivering!

One morning, the guide decided to drive to the part of Mana Pools near the Zambezi river, hoping we will see some more wildlife…We left early at 6 am, the time to go there last about 1h30. The river brought some fresh air that we appreciated, there were some more animals but not as many as we thought, anyway we saw Elands, few birds and 2 Lions sleeping under a tree.

At noon, we decided to have our lunch in the shadow when a tourist on foot came to ask us about Lions. The guide explained to him where he could find them at about 500m. I remained stuck by his question…we looked at him, he was on foot, alone with his backpack, no gun, just a small camera to « shoot » the Lions, may be he wanted to commit a suicide! The guide told us that in Mana Pools, people can walk everywhere in the park, it is permitted…you have just to sign a discharge. That may helps in dry season to nourish animals… We met him again later; he survived and was smiling as he had seen the Lions…

We were supposed to return around 4 or 5 pm, but the guide got a message to go back earlier because of some guests arriving… At this moment, I hated these tourists disrupting our day plan and spoiling our afternoon!

It was one pm when we turned back, in the meantime the heat had risen at its maximum, the Land Rover had just a roof and not side protection, it was the beginning of the HELL. We had to drive for 1h30 on a track without one meter of shadow; in some parts, it seems the car was moving across a fire bush! I thought I would die, I did not even sweat but my face was getting more and more red, and I began to panic. I realized quickly the situation and still more when I saw the guide who stops to empty a bottle of water on his head; at that moment I did wonder if I would see the end of the trip! The only solution I found was to take the remaining cubes of ice for the drinks and put them under my cap.

That helped me a lot, overall to rescue my last neurons. When we arrived at the lodge, it seemed the air was cool, I was told the temperature was 41°in the shadow, it means on the road it was at least 45°.

THE HIDE CAMP – Hwange NP.

Upon arrival, just leaving the local airport, we met the guide, his name was “Fortune” and we felt we should have some chance with him!!! We asked him for Wild Dogs; last time we saw them, it was in Botswana 12 years ago, and since we really missed them.

After enquiries with the « Painted Dogs Conservation » of the park, (Painted Dog is another name given to them because of the big brown patches they have on their body), we were told there was a small group sleeping not far from the main road! They were belonging to a group called Destiny pack composed of 7 dogs (6 males and one female).

What luck, we found some of them very quickly, they were sleeping under the trees. In spite they were not active, they were here and we were already pleased to see them.

This day was an enjoyable one! We crossed a part of Hwange NP park to go to « The Hide camp» located in a private reserve. It was sunset time when we reached a pond and felt a strong emotion to find ourselves in the middle of a huge herd of Elephants.

From the guide, they were between 250 and 300, big ones with many young ones. It was incredible! The reflection in the water was majestic, the light was not good but finally turned to be not bad. It was impressive, we were in the middle of the herd, looking at them while they ignored us; sometimes one curious came near the Land Rover, but they were peaceful. They played with the water and their wet skins made them stronger and more impressive… Suddenly after a while, it was very stunning, something happens, I don’t know what, a big Bull? Buffaloes? Lot of monkeys? They all began to run quickly away, passing near the car with some of them trumpeting. It ’s an image I will never forget!

In the evening we had supper outside facing a pan, we discussed with some guests that forced me to enter the very long tunnel of 25m ending with a Hide Room.

This tunnel is a must of the lodge but in spite of that I was frightened to go down this « tomb » being claustrophobic. I must say I was nearly push inside and nobody was listening to my complains.

Thanks to them, I saw my best view of a huge big bull Elephant from down profiling his shape on the dark sky. I can’t describe the view, it was so great! I felt suddenly in the true world of “Jurassic Park”. We stood there a moment wondering if we were on the same planet. I had forgotten my fear and I just wanted to come back the day after to take video, but most of the time, things happen just once and when I came back with my camera, some Elephants were further, smaller and it was so dark that I could not register anything! I was disappointed….

The following days of our stay seemed to be « promising ».
We left the camp as usual, at 6 a.m., looking for wildlife and birds; the sun began to rise when we arrived near a pan.

A pack Wild Dogs named the BaNyayi was resting or playing near the water, we were very happy to observe them thinking we had a great chance, but the best was not this day as they moved a bit further.

The best was the last safari of our stay before going to catch the plane to leave Africa.

That time at sunrise, we were lucky enough to find the same pack of 10 Wild Dogs but they were near us, the light was great and they were very active, moving in all directions. At their head were a male Alpha and a new female Alpha as unfortunately her sister had been killed by starving Hyenas. She had stayed to look at her 11 pups while the remaining of the pack went off to hunt and she was alone when hyenas choose that moment to attack and kill her; then they found the den and killed most of the pups that they devoured. It must have been terrible for the pack to discover that carnage upon their return to the den!

It needs 2 years before a new breeding occurs.

This pack has a majority of 2 years old pups with 3 adults; the adults and pups can run now together. At this moment, one dog is sick; if he is too bad another dog will stay to take care of him while the others will go for hunting. If they go too far they will eat as much as they can and will bring back the food by regurgitating it for the two remaining ones. They are very social, looking after each others. They are often traveling very far.

As they move on long distances, they go out of the park and then have no protection. That’s why the Research Center of the NP put a collar on the Male Alpha (the dominant) and if it disappears too long, they go to find him. In 80% of the cases, he can be hit by cars, or poisoned or he might be caught in a trap made by poachers.

Their Collars are not as expensive as for Lions, which have a direct satellite liaison; because of the cheaper price, they have just a VHF one for shorter distance. There are 2 kind of collars in this pack; the one for the Alpha Male is flat around his neck to protect him from wire traps.

In Hwange NP, only 150 Wild Dogs are still alive, their number are highly decreasing and I would be very affected if they came to disappear. In Africa, the population of Wild Dogs is now less than 5000…

The return to Paris was hard; our rehabilitation to civilization is each time more difficult, our world is getting every day more stupid, cruel and inhuman. As soon as we arrived, we had just one thought “to go back” and forget the oppressive whirl of the city life…

My feelings on the Wildebeest Migration

Posted on 9 février 2017 by mfg

It’s early morning, the weather is stormy when we leave the camp and the landscape is dressed in pastel colors, nature is waking up!

The wildebeests are everywhere; we decide to stop the car and wait. After a while, a herd seems to be on the move to cross the river.

We are in the North of Tanzania, in the famous Serengeti Plain, at the border of Kenya. This side of Tanzania has fewer vehicles and the 2 banks of the Mara River are connected by a bridge, which is a great advantage on other places.

We sat in the car near the river and have a panoramic view on the huge golden plain. The wildebeests are slowly gathering and we must be patient, first they sniff the river bank and jump into the water before moving in a single file, some others go away without any reason and climb up the slope, appearing like cartoons on the bluesky; it’s a fantastic vision that we imagine just in books!

I look far away, it’s a curious atmosphere and a strange feeling invades me when I see the gnus lined up like miniature lead soldiers, they are everywhere; I am not used to see this scenery, the lines move slowly to join those already arrived. I don’t know how long it will last; I don’t see any end, and I imagine that could take one, two hours, more? Nobody knows until suddenly they start gathering in a thick herd and begin to come close to the river. This time, they have made up their mind; they look for the best place to cross. That’s the moment and we began to be excited, anticipating the next action as suddenly, they change their mind and with no apparent reason again, they turn back and they all change of direction! Why? Mystery… Nobody could tell me!

The first crossing I saw, they were 5000 heads. One alone went to sniff the water and went back to the others waiting; it appears that after this try, some attend a kind of meeting with an elite group. The order to cross given, the all herd run tightened to jump into the water, putting all their strength to cross the Mara River.

The crossing is never easy, the families are often separated and I could observe touching moments. I remember a young one, which had landed on the other side; he was alone looking desperately at the river to find his family. He was at the top of a slope, moving like in a cage, his fear was contagious but as soon as he saw her mother, he began to skip with joy following her. What a beautiful memory!

Unfortunately they don’t all have this luck and I will never forget, this mother with her baby, she was lost walking along the bank blocked between the river and a slope. Apparently there was no reason to be worried but the reality was different. They both had to climb the slope to find back the other wildebeests; after several tries she succeeded but not the calf, which had too small legs and felt back into the water directly in the mouth of a crocodile. He had no chance to survive and was strangled under the look of her mother staring at the tragic situation. She was still looking when we left, it was dreadful and I felt uncomfortable.

In the evening in the lodge, we took a strong drink to forget this tragedy, at least for the night…

The following morning, we left for a 3^rd crossing; we nearly took roots facing the wildebeests gathering for hours when again they suddenly turned back. The best was to go and have our lunch box under another tree (they are plenty, we can change many times!!!)

My hope began to decrease seriously when we were informed that another crossing seemed to be on the way not far from us. The reaction in theses cases is to be prepared for a running and nearly flying start and drive My 2 arms strongly “fixed” at the Land Rover to avoid to be ejected, I thought “I was ready to join the “Paris Dakar”…This time the crossing was beginning in front of us from the other bank and I was at the best place, the show was unbelievable and very impressive. The river was protected by high steep cliffs of about 6m or more. Around 15000 animals were going down in long black lines drawing a map looking a bit like the Okavango Delta.

It was amazing, the scenery looked like a true suicide of the wildebeests. While many of them could find some trails cut in the cliff allowing an easier way, other groups remaining at the top of the cliff were looking down the precipice, evaluating the high and the hardness of the ground for their future “reception”…They stared carefully at the fall of the most intrepid before deciding to go.

The fall is really frightening; they plunge with the head first into the void trying to slow the speed by bumping on some roughness, which often lead them to twist in the air before a brutal landing. Fortunately many of them are safe, just a bit KO coming back to reality one or two minutes later. But some others have a broken leg, they stayed in the water shouting with distress, conscious they are condemned and it is dreadful to see them helplessly!

The difficulties of crossing are not only due to the cliffs, I have observed crossings which at first sight could not let me imagine the coming tragedies which were going to take place.

When there are no cliffs, the Mara River is often full of big rocks in its middle.

It seems then that there is a leader (or several) to which the whole herd must obey. When the signal of going is given, they all rush following the head of the herd, and that can be a disaster when the decision left many of them without “Return tickets”. That was the case, this time, the first estimation was completely wrong, the blocks of big rocks were making a funnel in which they were entering unconscious of the appalling trap.

The animals go among the rocks in quantity while only few can go out; they have to fight to survive, they fall, they slide, they step on themselves or remain stuck in the stones. It’s truly an apocalyptic vision that I will never forget.

However, in spite of this apparent unconsciousness, there is like a reflex of common sense as suddenly and in an unexpected manner, another file in parallel is taking place just near but out of the trap.

A thinking head has understood the problem and has changed the way. The group luckier will cross safely at 50m from the other prisoners.

It happens that some wildebeests, once they arrived on the other side, turn back, facing the herd crossing. They have realized that their family is not here and they want to be sure that they are ok. It’s touching after they took so many risks.

Referring to zebras, they are not working the same …They cohabit well with the wildebeests without any problems. They eat the same grass but not the same part, while zebras eat the taller grass, the wildebeests prefer the shorter one…When there is no more grass, both of them need to migrate.

The crossing of rivers is dangerous for them too but they use the wildebeests to test the risks of a passage. They first let the wildebeests go and if everything looks safe, they join them to reach the other river bank. If not, they abandon the wildebeests to test another possible crossing. Clever, they have understood they have the choice to decide what to do according to the security of the place. They are quite aware there are several passages per day and they take their time studying the difficulties encountered by the gnus.

One morning, there was a crossing that appeared to me quiet and for once I was cool! Everything was going well until a Hippo family jumps out of the water, they were very angry after the wildebeests, which overrun their territory. They could not support such intrusion and began to run after forcing them to rectify their way. Then, as soon as they moved just 4 meters further, they stopped fighting them, remaining quite vigilant!

The world of animals is a very weird world and sometimes subtle which our common sense cannot always understand but which obviously has a logic explanation, we just have to find it!!!

Trip on the Heath River

Posted on 17 juin 2015 by mfg

The “Heath River Centre Lodge” is on the Heath river, which marks the frontier between Peru and Bolivia; nothing to see except some local miners looking for gold.

Soon after leaving, except the splendid crescent of the moon, the night was complete. The boat had no lights and followed the indications of someone lightening the river with a torch in one’s hand. The silence in the purple night was unforgettable, that was a great moment!

The hotel was far from any human life; we were the only guests having the privilege to enjoy the complete quietness of Amazonia. There was no light in the room, just two poor candles allowing us to move safely; the best thing to do was to go to bed listening to the soft talk of the vegetation.”

We left the following day at 5.30 am to see the macaws. We had around 30 minute boat to reach a hide: a floating “house” in the middle of the Heath River, it was misty, quiet and we felt a strange serenity…The water was carrying some pack of foam like industrial rejection which surprised me so far away! In fact it was only dry leaves, which after falling into the water, decomposed themselves with bacteria making a kind of soap, it was not pollution, but just a natural process!

The wake up of nature is always wonderful. First nothing happened, and then the birds came progressively and by groups. The “show” began at around 7am with the arrival of the green parrots and at 9 am it was the red & green macaws turn.

The green parrots are smaller and with a short tail. They wear feathers on the head and up to their eyes on the contrary to the “red & green macaws which are the largest parrots and with a face completely bald; their tails can be longer than their bodies… They have sharp hooked bills and strong enough to break nuts. Their 2 toes pointing forward and the 2 other pointing backward, allow them to grasp their food.

They come every morning to the “clay lick” obviously to lick the clay from which they find their vitamins, and also to get from it a protective effect against any poison they could eat with their food.

We noticed some of the red and green with a yellow “patch” on the back, it was another type called “scarlet macaws”. Most of the time they nest in the holes of the trees. They live in couple and lay 2 eggs each year but keep only one “baby” alive”. Their main predators are eagles.

It is a spectacular moment which can be interrupted at any time, the macaws are very shy and attentive, that was confirmed when a small and inoffensive squirrel strolled on the clay, suddenly all the macaws flied away and did not come back leaving us with some disappointment. But we were lucky, as we had reckoned more that 50 macaws, knowing it was not the best period to see them.

The weather was changing also very quickly, and we waited in the shelter looking at a sudden tropical shower on the Heath River and observing some “dusky tiki monkeys” manifesting their presence just after the wet. They were very near and their shouts very powerful, we felt integrated in their world, and were now listening to their talk with others in the deep bush.

The banks of the Heath River mark the frontier between Peru & Bolivia and the strong rains cause damages, which normally bother nobody. In this case, it is quite different as it is a constant fight between nature and people of the eco-tourism hotel.

The lodge is in Bolivia and under an American control. The flood with the time is changing the course of the river and if nobody from the lodge stops it by strengthening the bordure, the hotel will be soon in Peru, which will not authorize the concession.

The clay lick is on the Peru bank side. If the eco lodge on the Bolivia side became Peruvian, it would have to close because of Peru laws. Therefore, it would be impossible to have the great chance to observe the red and green macaws on the “clay lick” which is too far away inside the uninhabited jungle and that would be a great loss for everybody.

End

My Bhutan Trip – Anecdotes

Posted on 3 juin 2014 by mfg

PARO :
The landing in Paro airport was a bit impressive but the weather was good…After flying one hour or so above the huge white dissected range of Himalaya, the plane began to go slowly down but facing the mountains. I could not see any runaway to land but the very near slopes. I looked at the passengers, they were quiet like a flock of sheep in situation, then I decided to behave like a sheep too…

Bhutan has a Population of 750 000 inhabitants, Thimphu is the capital with 100 000 inhabitants, Paro with the international airport has only 30 000 inhabitants and stretches at 2250 m.

Bhutan has now the same problems as everywhere in the world, people think they will earn more money in town and they leave their villages loosing at the same time the traditions…
I think it was great time for me to visit this country and the last opportunity to still have an idea of the old Bhutan, which makes so many people dream….

The weather was superb when we arrived but at 4 pm the cold began to be a bit biting.
The hotel had small heaters and the room was much appreciated after that big travel.

The first morning we went to see a temple; it was a nice place that we reached by foot, following small charming paths. It was the autumn and the birch trees had taken such an exceptional color that the landscape looked quite romantic.

We returned to the hotel around 4pm, there was no current up to 6pm and then the heating was “out”…
Nothing to do than wait for the call from the restaurant. The soup was late too, depending on the current…The meal included plain rice, kind of Chinese fried vegetables, chicken in gravy, and potatoes (the best). It seemed good the first day but the problem is that it is always the same menu everywhere every day!
I asked for a beer, I got a 650ml, no choice, but the air dries the throat and a cup of tea is too small for a perfect hydration.

The road to Chelila Pass was running among high mountains covered by conifers, among them, a lot of larches had turned to be yellow due to the autumn season. We had the chance to drive at the right time before they loose their pine needles like any trees their leaves. The larches are the only conifers to get autumnal colors.

I was dreaming on this wonderful nature when I noticed in some places, groups of artificial small mushrooms with different colored hats…

After enquiring, I learnt with surprise they were made by monks with ashes of dead people mixed with clay and called tsa-tsa. In fact they are “chorten-like” and can have different top colors representing the elements such as yellow for the earth, white for the air, red for fire…these miniatures Chortens or “Stupas” are spread in some holy mountain places, they are in memory of persons which passed away and are made to help them to have a good re-birth and reach the Nirvana.

DOCHULA PASS :
As soon as we drove out of the main touristic towns, the roads are quickly in bad conditions and it seemed that we went to Dochula pass riding horseback! After a stop on the way to run after Grey Langurs, we arrived at the pass (3050m), it was cold but the view on Himalaya was really impressive and worth the trip. The Big Chorten with its 108 Stupas around had something majestic, imposing respect.

We had chosen to spend the night in the only hotel at the top and it was great. The room was very comfortable but at the same time with a “taste” of the past which we appreciated very much.

At 6 am, through our window we could assist at the sunrise on the Himalayan range, but in spite of the cold we opened the door and went out on the next terrace to enjoy this wonderful wake up of the sun on the mountains.

PUNAKHA :
lies in a sub-tropical valley, it is a small friendly town with one of the most famous Dzong (temple). The Dzong are not exclusively for the monks, they have also offices reserved for the government. At the origin they were true fortresses to protect the surroundings.
The Punakha Dzong was built at the confluence of the Pho Chhu river (male) and Mo Chu river (female) which meet to form the Puna Tsang chu River.

It is when walking along the bank that I could take pictures of the very critically endangered “White-bellied Heron”. In this part of Bhutan they remain only 3 and in all Bhutan, only around 20, in the world less than 200….

We spent 3 nights in Punakha and returning to the river I got one of my best pictures. I was looking at the bank, when I noticed a Crane. Jumping out of the car, I ran near the water, my crane was not afraid and let me shoot quietly until she flies without hurry. At the same time, I heard “voices” shouting, “don’t run, you will see many in Gangtey !

Back to the car I understood it was a Black-necked Crane which never stops here, event that the guide decided to report to the “Birds Office Book”.
My excitement had paid; I had an “exclusivity” as in Gangtey it will be impossible to approach them.

Bhutanese people like to decorate their houses which are most of the time very pretty but mainly in Punakha and around, the paintings of the walls are quite surprising. It can be seen everywhere walls with decorations such as beautiful flowers, life-sized tigers on one side of the door and on the other just an oversized phallus!

The legend comes from Drupka Kinley (1455-1529) who was fond of women and wine, he wanted to chock the clergy and from the rumor he would have hit and subdue demons with his penis.
From that legend people believe the phallus is protecting the house against deities and bad spirits.

It was in this attractive small town that I had my best meal of the country.
The reputation of Bhutan is based on ecology protection and also on the fact they don’t kill any animals. This concept left me more than skeptical when in all the restaurants they proposed a large choice of chickens and beef meat.
After enquiries, I felt very disappointed to hear that they don’t eat their local animals but import the meat from India. Meat is a common plate not only for tourists but also for all Bhutanese people.

The guide explained to us that the Bhutanese chickens are running free, people just take their eggs and referring to the cows, goats and so on… they are also having a happy life until their natural death. They live peacefully in the fields and in exchange they “offer” the milk to make butter and cream! Strange way to consider the valor of animal life when they eat those of other countries. That would say that born abroad, the animal is a “devil” one while born in Bhutan, he is a “holly” one.
Consequently of this law, people killing animals fell under the full force of the law and are severely punished!

After these considerations, the general economy of the country depends on 80% of India, but the Chinese began to appear and they should take care if they don’t want to end up like Tibet.

Bhutan is also the country of a very strange animal called “Takin”, being very difficult to find and then to approach, we decided to pay a visit to him in the Punakha zoo. I had never seen in my life such a special antilope, he is as big as a cow with a goat face and quite indifferent to people, even to me, I was offended!

On the morning we decided to go to Jigmi Jordi N.P. It is a bit far but we wanted to find the wild Takin. We were driving on a winding road among the forest since about 4 hours when the way was suddenly closed for works…That’s Bhutan! No information before, just go and come back and if not pleased it is the same…Seen like that, of course, it’s not easy to see the Takin…

The road was decorated by a quantity of long kind of ribbons with prayer flags; I was wondering how the ribbon could begin at the top of a mountain and end at the top of another mountain, the two mountains being separated by a large river? In Bhutan, the archery is the national sport, all is said!!! They fix the ribbon at an arrow, aim the bow and arrow at the facing mountain. Easy, isn’t it?

The prayer flags are made by the family in memory of a dead person, the more prayer flags, the more merit and the more chance for the defund to have a good “retreat”…

GANGTEY VALLEY :
The width of the valley makes the difference with others, it is situated in Central Bhutan at around 2900m. This place is famous because of the migration of the endangered Black-necked Cranes coming from the North in winter.

Every year in the village of Phobjikha takes place the colorful “Crane Festival” to celebrate their arrivals. It is held in the courtyard of the Dzong and gather many people.

ZHEMGANG :
If you do want to go to Zhemgang, please don’t ask anybody about the trip, if you do, you won’t go, after on the way, you can’t change your mind and would not risk to turn back the car.
This road is among the most frightening mountain roads I have ever taken.
Trongsa to Zhemgang is about 110km, first the unpaved road is not so bad, very dusty and obstructed by a lot of big “Tata” Trucks making return trips to the under construction dam. It should offer to Bhutan 80% of its Hydro electricity against 40% now, the tourism taking the second place.

I was in hurry to pass the dam & avoid all this heavy smoke mixed with the dust released by the huge “Tata” … The fear invaded me when we had to cross trucks; the precipice was more than 800m high and very steep, no tree to stop any fall, the road was getting narrow; the curves being very tight, we had to put the wheels in alignment with the deep and my heart was upside down when I checked through the window.

I thought that after the dam, it would be easier, but not! We had the cliff on the left and always the arid deep on the right, no possibility for a bush toilet, which became a real problem. Finally, I had to stop to an isolated house suspended on the cliff and implore to spend few minutes of loneliness in their private cabin!

This done, we continued our way and were stopped after few hours of anxiety by a panel indicating the way was closed and will open at 2.30 pm. It was 2 pm, we were lucky! But it was not the same for the return, the opening of the road being at sunrise. So, it meant that the departure from Zhemgang would be at night. This road at night! I was living a nightmare and refused to think more about that…

At least, after 11 hours of quasi non stop driving, we deserved Zhemgang.

The surroundings were very picturesque and people were harvesting the paddy fields, the light was very good probably due to the altitude of 1900m.
The small town has around 2500 inhabitants and was very peaceful; we got the best hotel, noted as a 3 stars…

We had a very nice welcome at the hotel and invited to have a cup of tea in the private saloon, then the manager took us to our room.
The room was big and looked comfortable, I was very happy to see we had a good heater, as it is very cold in the night.

The bathroom was however a bit surprising, the size was about 2 square meters, no washbasin and the shower was just for Lilliputians: 2 water taps hot and cold, at one meter from the floor, the water falling directly on the floor. The shower consisted in using the saucepan provided to that effect!
To clean the floor, we had just to use the flush of the raised toilet seat as all the water was each time running direct on to the ground…Fortunately, it seems the slope of the floor had been studied by high level engineers and so the water could escape. Everything was ok…
In spite of these details, we had really a good stay at this place as everybody did his best to please us.

But why did we choose going to Zhemgang?
The purpose of our trip was overall to find and get pictures of the famous Golden Langurs, which are about 4000 in Bhutan and many of them in this district.

We had a full day to try to find them; we first saw a group hanging on the mountain but a bit too far. We were looking in the bush when the guide came toward us laughing. He said :” people here don’t see many tourists, they took your big cameras for guns and were afraid to see you shooting the golden Langurs…”
After convincing them it was not, they told him where to find them and it was a big reward to get pictures even if the sun was not exactly in the ideal position. The great problem now with Langurs is that, since humans have built bridges, the Capped Langurs leaving on the other side can cross the rivers and the males Capped Langurs are mating now with the pure golden Langurs, their genes being dominant, the pure Golden Langurs are going to disappear as a distinct species with the time…

The return to Trongsa was of course as difficult, I did not drink anything before leaving to avoid bush problem, we were now a bit hardened, but nevertheless we did enjoy our arrival safe and sound in Trongsa, happy to have survived to this unexpected dreadful long road!